A Day in Rome

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July 27, 2014 There I was in Rome, finally, after ten weeks of walking mostly solo through Spain, France, and Italy. Since leaving Barcelona I hadn’t experienced any huge cities, and even Barcelona is small compared with Rome, or seems to be. Maybe it was because I’d been ten weeks walking mostly silent countryside roads […]

Getting Close

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July 24th through 27th were relatively pleasant walks through the countryside. You’d never guess you were less than 100 kilometers from the Eternal City in Bolsena. Then as I walked from there to Montefiascone (7/25), Montefiascone to Viterbo (7/26), and then Viterbo to Capranica (7/27) I kept expecting that the countryside would become more populated, […]


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Turning the Way-Back Machine to 6/23/14: In Torino/Turin, I took an extra day for R&R, paying an exorbitant 35€ a night for a 2-star hotel. I’m not complaining, but the room was so small that the mice were round-shouldered. And talk about the bathroom: I had to step over the bidet to get to the […]

Lurs to Peipin

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6/11/14 The day after a restful night in Lurs I woke rested and ready to take on the world this morning. I had to, because Ganagobie was in front of me. I left Lurs, a beautiful, little medieval village, but sadly, without a café, and walked north toward the monastery of Ganagobie. I knew a […]


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The sounds here can be very different from Seattle, Washington or Lisbon, Iowa. For one, the swallows are constant: they fly seemingly in random patterns, swooping and diving at 150 miles per hour, all the while making a high-pitched sound somewhere between a screech and a whistle. There may be hundreds of them in the […]

Forcalquiere to Lurs

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6/10/2014 Forcalquiere to Lurs Why do horses do this? They have the whole pasture, andthey stand side by side in the heat, in the sun even. Theone on the left stood with his head beneath the other thewhole time I was getting my camera out and taking this. There being no place to stay in […]